Past
tours
organized and led by Michael Barker for The Decorative Arts
Society - 1850 to the Present went to Barcelona, Brussels,
Lisbon, Oporto, Bilbao, Biarritz & the Basque Country, Prague,
Helsinki, Brno & Bratislava, Riga, Havana, Ljubljana, Nice &
the French Riviera, Bordeaux, Rennes, Dinan & St Malo, Nantes
& Angers, Toulouse & Albi, Marseille & Aix-en-Provence,
Rouen & Dieppe, Nancy & Strasbourg, Lille & Roubaix,
Picardy & Artois, Cambrai & Le-Cateau on the trail of Matisse
and a series of annual tours of Paris, each exploring different,
little- known aspects of the city. For The Friends of Charleston,
we went to the Côte d'Azur, visiting the Matisse chapel and
a private villa frequented by 'Bloomsbury;' to Dieppe in the footsteps
of Virginia Woolf and we then followed the trail of 'Bloomsbury
in Paris' including a visit to Picasso's studio. For Paris-NadFas
we went to Normandy to investigate Anglo-French artistic and literary
connections.
Michael
Barker
has now established MB Art & Architecture Tours,
based in Paris, personally leading small groups of ten or more.
Its first trip was a winter escape to the sun to explore the surprisingly
little-visited Art Deco city of Casablanca,
followed by another winter escape: to exotic Marrakech
with a visit to a sumptuous private Art Deco villa and a trip into
the High Atlas. Next, by complete contrast, to Turin,
with its wealth of Baroque, Art Nouveau and moderne architecture.
The first Spring 2006 tour took us to the splendid cities of Lille
and Amiens, exploring Picardy and experiencing the moving architecture
created by Lutyens for the Imperial War Graves commission. The second
tour explored little-known aspects of Paris while
the third tour took us to the utterly different Provençal
cities of Nimes & Montpellier.
Michael
Barker's career,
principally spent in the restoration of old buildings in England
and France, has included researching and participating in the creation
of some 20 documentary films made by Christian Bussy of RTBF (Belgian
State Television) for his programme Arts-Magazine - devoted
to art and architecture - in Britain, France, Italy and Austria
– Palladio, Gothick, Art Nouveau and Le Corbusier were among
the subjects - repeats still crop up on late-night foreign TV. Author
of a well-received short biography: Sir Edwin Lutyens,
co-author of the ground-breaking guide: The North of France
and co-author of The Thiepval Guide. Michael Barker's numerous
articles have covered a wide range of subjects concerning architecture
and the decorative arts in France. Three books are in the pipeline:
Dieppe and its Artists, Paris and Bloomsbury and The
Life of Robert Lutyens - architect, writer and painter - the
son of Sir Edwin Lutyens, architect of the world's biggest palace
at New Delhi.
Our
Trips in 2006:
It has been an extremely interesting year of travel to foreign parts
- and truly memorable
- with the wide variety of visual pleasures, flavours and contrasting
cultures that we all experienced. Our 2006 tours season began with
a flourish in February when 23 of us, from England, France, America,
Italy, Belgium and Ireland, travelled to sunny Marrakech
where, based at our comfortable hotel, we explored the exotic aspects
of this extraordinary, colourful ancient Moroccan city. We went
up into the High Atlas to a delicious lunch in an old Berber hill-top
fort reached by steep mule-paths with young boys tending goats and
women washing clothes in swift-flowing streams and with outstanding
views all around of old villages clinging vertiginously to the slopes
of the snow-covered mountain peaks. By contrast, thanks to the introduction
by local expert Lara Cleminson, we were warmly welcomed at a superb
Art Deco private villa built by a Frenchman in 1928 in the heart
of the Palmeraie. Lara also arranged our convivial dinner at an
atmospheric country inn, which though newly built, is in the romantic
style created by Charles Boccara, leading local architect, who reinvents
the Moroccan vernacular using traditional materials. Member's enthusiastic
comments about this and other tours are flagged up on the website
under 'Testimonials.'
In March
it was a 'Bloomsbury in Paris'
tour, exploring the haunts in St Germain-des-Prés
and Montparnasse of Virginia Woolf and her fellow Bloomsbury writers
and artists who frequented Picasso, Matisse, Derain and Gertrude
Stein. Hidden corners where Augustus John lived, getting into two
of the places where Picasso painted and into a picturesque, rose-bowered
enclave of studios where Boris Anrep created his mosaics for the
National Gallery in London, were among the various pleasures we
experienced off the beaten track.
It has
become realised belatedly that Turin,
with its magnificent backcloth of the Alps, is one of the great
unsung cities of Italy. In fine weather in May, aided by local resident
Harriet Graham, we explored its wealth of Baroque, Eclectic, Art
Nouveau, Modernist and contemporary architecture including getting
into a rare Art Nouveau building by Raimondo d'Aronco, and generally
enjoyed Turin's wonderful old-fashioned cafés with rich interiors,
its spacious, arcaded squares, its excellent cuisine and Piedmont
wines. The smartly revamped former Lingotto factory - made famous
by the 1960s film: The Italian Job - and Metropolis
an exceptional exhibition of modern art were among the numerous
pleasures in this city of dramatic contrasts.
It was
a warm sunny June in France for our 'Lutyens
in Picardy' tour. After a perambulation of Lille,
another splendid city with Baroque and fin-de-siècle
architecture, now becoming better known for its many treasures -
where we saw the one of Guimard's most extraordinary Art Nouveau
achievements, the vivid Art Deco mosaics in a renowned poissonnerie
and visited the Beaux Arts Museum with its rich art collections
- we then headed by mini-bus to the mediaeval city of Arras which
has two magnificent cobbled squares of Flemish-gabled houses, now
beautifully enhanced after dusk by subtle illumination which we
exulted in while we sat with our apéritifs before going to
our gastronomic dinner. Our journey continued in the wide open spaces
of Artois and Picardy under huge skies where remote lanes led us
to the many moving cemeteries and notable monuments of the Great
War - dramatic architecture and landscaping of the highest order
- created by the genius of Lutyens and his fellow architects.
The two
contrasting Provençal cities of Montpellier
and Nîmes were chosen as our weekend destination
in late June. From our hôtel de charme in Montpellier's
old quarter we meandered its narrow, picturesque streets lined with
mediaeval and classical mansions with attractive courtyards before
arriving at the lively Place de la Comédie, the epitome of
the lively, tree-shaded large public squares that French cities
excel in. Bofill's megalomaniac modern-classical 'Antigone' was
unavoidable but it simply did not stand comparison with real
classical architecture: the magnificent Promenade de Peyrou and
the Arc de Triomphe. On the edge of the city we visited the cathedral
and the nearby Jardin des Plantes, the oldest botanical garden in
France. Further out: an Art Deco church with stunning mosaics and
stained glass and an Art Deco former hospital with gigantic Deco
sculptures, now converted into smart apartments. Nîmes, only
35 miles away, is utterly different in character. It also has old
mansions in picturesque narrow streets but its focal points are
the great Arena and the Maison Carrée, two of the finest
monuments of Ancient Rome outside Italy. The latter stands opposite
Norman Foster's Carré d'Art - for once for him almost self-effacing.
Nîmes equally has a grand classical layout: Les Jardins de
la Fontaine with a vast ensemble of allées and formal,
balustraded waterways, but here with a background of wooded hills.
With Romanesque, Baroque, neo-Gothic and Art Deco churches, an Art
Deco school and Jean Nouvel's avant-garde Nemausus, the city offered
a fine range of things to see. And not forgetting delicious meals
in both venues.
Istanbul
is one of the most extraordinary and fascinating cities imaginable.
In early October, 14 of us stayed in the atmospheric Pera Palace
hotel (as did Mata Hari, Trotsky, Greta Garbo, Agatha Christie,
Graham Greene int al), French-built when the city was still
Constantinople, in the Europeanised quarter of this great, sprawling
city. Its main street at night could not have been more lively;
cheerful young people thronging its innumerable cafés and
restaurants, some of them rather sophisticated in the Western sense.
More varied than any other city visited this year, Istanbul offered
notable Art Nouveau architecture - by Raimondo d'Aronco among others
- the almost-too-sumptuous Eclectic palaces and mosques by the Armenian
but Paris-trained Balyan dynasty, an avant-garde hospital by Charles
Holden - later the architect of Oscar Wilde's tomb, Senate House,
Great War memorials and modernist London tube stations - the neo-Gothic
Crimean Memorial church by GE Street, the classical former British
Embassy by Sir Charles Barry, architect of the Houses of Parliament,
and interesting 19c and 20c bank buildings and churches by Italian
and Greek architects. In Old Istanbul, before tackling the major
sights of Topkapi Palace, the magical Aghia Sofia and the Blue Mosque,
we visited the great Sinan's more intimate Rustem Pasa mosque with
beautiful Iznik tiles, the lively Spice market with morning coffee
courteously served at the legendary Pandeli restaurant with its
lovely blue-tiled interior and then a glimpse inside a coffee-merchant's
Art Deco premises with its pretty staircase. The vast, underground
eerily-dripping, multi-columned Basilica Cistern - featured in a
James Bond film - made a deep impression. While the service was
a bit orientally slow, we had an excellent lunch at the restaurant
in the grand Sirkeci Station built by a German architect as the
terminal of the Orient Express. A very good lunch was enjoyed on
the terrace of the sophisticated restaurant (impeccable service
this time) at a new contemporary arts museum (with proper paintings
not 'installations') with entertaining views of the bustling river
traffic and the far Asian shore. A boat journey up the Bosphorus
was an essential trip, with views of the yalis - aristocratic
waterside mansions - both picturesque and grand. Istanbul has major
museums of course but its new Industrial Museum was described by
a member, an expert in these matters, as one of the finest of its
kind he has ever visited.
The
Seine Valley & Rouen
was my last tour in 2006 - also in October - in perfect, golden
autumnal weather - organized for The Friends of Charleston - 'Bloomsbury
Group' addicts. After a jolly bistro lunch, we explored aspects
of Paris in the footsteps of 'Bloomsberries', ending up for dinner
at the best restaurant in the arrondissement. Next morning our mini-bus
took us to the country house of painter André Derain, his
studio evocatively crowded with artist's impedimenta. We then ventured
into the beautiful, lush meandering Seine Valley with its tall chalk
cliffs. After a sumptuous auberge lunch we passed through villages
made known world-wide by the Impressionists before arriving at the
most famous of them all: Giverny - where we visited Claude Monet's
pink-rendered house with his sublimely decorated interiors and lush,
colourful gardens, the American Impressionists museum and the enchanting
fin-de-siècle inn where Monet's friends lodged and painted
in the studio outside, in a romantic, bosky garden. Passing the
dramatic ruins of Richard-the-Lion-Heart's castle, we then looked
at the picturesque small Norman town of Lyons-la-Forêt - home
of Ravel and often used for filming historical-epics - surrounded
by the largest beech forest in Europe. Dinner was a relaxed feast
in a restaurant next to our hotel in the heart of the ancient city
of Rouen which we explored the following day - its cathedral a favourite
subject of Monet, its picturesque mediaeval streets and its excellent
museums.
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